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| KNOW-HOW |
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| Stitching on perforated paper |
The Victorians were crazy about using perforated or punched paper for their stitching. They used it to make cards, bookmarks and needlecases and to decorate the empty spaces in their scrapbooks. Many ladies were skilled at stitching motifs onto the paper and cutting it into shapes which they pasted together to create an intricate, almost lace-like pattern.
You can still buy perforated paper from your local needlecraft store. It is fun to work with and can be used to make some exciting and original items. It is sold in A4 sheets of 14 count and can be used just as you would use aida fabric. As the holes in the paper are slightly larger than in the fabric, it is recommended that you used three strands of thread to get a good coverage of the paper. These larger holes help when stitching, as the needle passes through them easily and there is less risk of the paper being torn.
Unlike Victorian paper which was only produced in neutral shades, modern stitching paper comes in 10 lovely antique colours, including red, blue, gold and silver.
Perforated paper is not difficult to work with and is ideal for small projects that don't need a lot of time or materials - why not give it a try?
Step by step guide
Stitching with perforated paper is easy once you know how. Here we cover all the ins and outs for you, from choosing your design to cutting it out after stitching.
1. Which design should I choose? Perforated paper only comes in 14-count and can be used to stitch many of your favourtie charts with stranded cotton and a 24 or 26 tapestry needle. The holes are bigger, so cross stitch your design in three strands instead of two; use one or two strands for backstitch depending on your preference. Choose designs that only use whole stitches - you can't pierce the paper to make a central hole for fractional stitches.
2. What equipment do I need? Apart from the paper and thread, the only special item you may need to invest in is a pair of craft scissors, for cutting out the design once you've stitched it. Avoid using your embroidery scissors for this - the paper will blunt them. You may find a thread clipper useful for cutting out the most fiddly areas of a design. You'll need a pencil and soft rubber to mark the centre and the cutting lines - use a scrap piece of paper first to check that you can easily rub out the pencil marks.
3. Where do I start? Cut a piece of paper 5cm (2in) larger all round than your design - enough to hold the paper whilst you stitch and as a margin for error. Mark the centre point softly with two pencil lines which you can rub out later. Remember that the right side of perforated paper is the smooth side. Count the number of squares across and down from the centre to the point where you want to start stitching. A square consists of the four holes you use to make a cross stitch and you'll find that you're less likely to make a mistake if you count squares rather than the number of holes.
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4. How do I cut out the design? If you are following a chart designed specially for perforated paper, it should include a cutting line for you to follow. If you are using any other chart, you may want to draw in your own cutting line. You can cut vertically, horizontally or diagonally between the holes. Cut carefully, taking your time, and, if necessary, go back to complete a tricky part at the end. When your cutting line runs close to the edge of the stitching, make sure you have at least one square between the design and the edge or your stitches will come out - it may help to mark the cutting lines in pencil before you start.
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Handle with care
Perforated paper needs to be handled carefully because it is more fragile than fabric, but you will soon get the hang of it. Take your time when you first use it and try to pull the thread through the holes as smoothly as possible to avoid catching the paper and tearing it.
If you DO tear the paper, don't worry too much. A small tear can be repaired by sticking a small piece of transparent tape to the wrong side of the paper. Carry on stitching as if the tape wasn't there, piercing it when you need to so that you can stitch the holes it is covering, and the tear shouldn't be visible once the design is complete.
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