2. Cutting mitres Once you have selected the moulding you wish to use, it is time to start the tricky process of marking the lengths of moulding, so that you cut them to exactly the same length. Often it is simpler to cut the moulding with straight cuts to just over the required length, making the length of timber easier to handle. Click here to see mouldings available at diyframing.com. In this example we are going to have a frame with a rebate size of 30x30cm. Cut 4 lengths at size 30cm + (moulding width x2) then add on another 4cm waste. So, if the width of the moulding is 4.5cm then the length of each side will be 30cm (artwork size) + 9cm (moulding width x2) +4cm (waste)=43cm Fig D Once you have all four pieces cut, pencil in where the cut marks will be situated on the inside of the rebate. From one end of the moulding and in the rebate make a pencil mark approx 2cm in. Then measure the width of the moulding and mark that distance from the first pencil mark that you made. The third mark will be the artwork size plus 2mm, i.e. 30.2cm in this example. The 2mm gives a small amount of movement in the rebate (Fig D). Fig E Now its time to saw the moulding using your mitre saw. Here we have used a Nobex Proman saw which gives a superb degree of accuracy (fig E) - click here to see bladed cutters available at diyframing.com. Place the moulding into the saw and cut the mitre from the pencil mark at 4.5cm to the back edge of the 2cm mark. Then release the catch that locks the saw blade at a specified angle and let it "click" into the desired angle position ready for the next cut. Once again line up the saw blade with the pencil mark and make the cut, making sure not to force the saw blade through the wood. A great deal of time can be saved if a Ezy-measure system is used in conjunction with the saw you are using - it also guarantees the degree of accuracy over manual measurements. Click here for details of frame cutting tools available at diyframing.com.

3. Clamping and joining Fig F You have four pieces of moulding cut to the correct length and ready to join. Check there are no burrs of wood in the rebate - if there are, just trim them off with a craft knife. Next, glue the pieces of wood (Fig F) with a PVA glue and place them on your work surface face-up, arranging the pieces together in the desired shape. We recommend a steel strap clamp - click here for details of strap clamps available at diyframing.com - to clamp all the pieces together because it is important that the corners of the frame you are joining are held firmly before V-nailing - the pressure of the V-nail entering the base of the moulding can force the joint open if it is not held securely. The clamp is easier to use if you slide the frame and the clamp to the edge of the bench. Pull through the excess strap then lock the strap by tightening the right hand locking handle. Fig G Slide the frame and clamp back onto the table and align each of the joints. Apply further pressure by tightening the central tensioning handle a few turns (Fig G). Check the alignment again and apply more pressure with a few more turns of the central tensioning handle. Repeat the process until the band is tight. Once the frame is tight and secure in the clamp, carefully turn the frame over. You are now ready to insert the V-nails. Fig H Fig I We are using a PushMaster - click here for details of the PushMaster frame joiner available at diyframing.com - to insert the V-nails into the base of the wood moulding (Fig H). The V-nail pulls the corners together making a tight firm join. The PushMaster can used just with hand pressure on most wood mouldings, or can be gently hit with a mallet if you are using harder wood mouldings. Select the V-nail suitable to the moulding height, peel off one V-nail from the cartridge and position it around the magnetic tip of the PushMaster. Make sure the sharp edge is down. Align the V-nail across the mitre so that the sides of the V-nail are parallel with the sides of the frame. Then with one firm motion press the V-nail into the moulding. Start closer to the rebate and work your way out. For a moulding that is 4.5cm wide, 2 or 3 V-nails would normally be used on each joint. Once you have inserted V-nails all the way around the frame, the strap clamp can be removed and the frame rim is ready for the next stage.

4. Glass and backboard cutting Making a decision on what glass to use often very much depends on the artwork. For detailed information about choosing glass, visit our website at www.diyframing.com. The main types of glass are plain float glass and non-reflective or anti-glare. Both can be cut with a suitable glasscutter. Fig J Firstly, mark up the glass to the required size with a fibre tip pen, placing it on a flat non-slip surface. Put a non-slip ruler along the marks and scribe a line with your glasscutter (Fig J). Place the etched line over the edge of the table, firmly holding the main piece of glass on the table. Grip the waste piece of glass with the other hand and push down, snapping the glass along the etched edge. It is strongly advised to wear suitable safety goggles and gloves for this step. Bear in mind when using a glasscutter that you should keep the wheel well oiled - this will lubricate the cut and increase the life of the glasscutter. Fig K Cutting the backing board is a similar process to cutting the glass. Mark the board in the same way and cut it on the on the flat non-slip surface using a Stanley knife (Fig K). If the resultant edges of the board are rough, simply rub them with sandpaper, making sure you wipe off any dust so that it doesn't end up in the frame. 5. Assembly You now have all the components to construct the frame: mounted artwork, glass, backing and rim. Place the rim face-down on the work surface. Clean the glass thoroughly and place into the rebate. Check your artwork for any bits that may have attached themselves and position it onto the glass in the rebate. Finally, put on the backing board. Do a final check before fixing the backing board. Fig L Push the frame against a fixed block of wood, so you have some resistance when pushing in the backing pins (Fig L). If you have a PushMaster you can use either backing nails or Flexipoints - Flexipoints are bendable points which allow you to remove the artwork by simply bending the points back; they can be returned to their original position afterwards. Click here for details of Flexipoints and backing nails available at diyframing.com. Fig M Tape the joint between the backing board and the frame (Fig M) to stop unwanted dust and bugs getting in. We recommend using brown adhesive tape which needs to be moistened with a damp sponge before application. Take extra care with the taping and keep it neat - this is often what makes the whole job look like it has been done professionally.

6. Hanging Putting the correct fixing on the back of the frame to hang the picture is critical. The fixing needs to be strong and secure. Fig N Fig O One method is to use screw eyes - these can be simply inserted with the PushMaster (Fig N). One consideration is to be aware of screwing into a thin bit of frame, as this may allow the screw eye to be pushed out of the front of the moulding. Another method is to use D-rings, which are screwed into the back of the moulding (Fig O). D-rings come in various sizes allowing for the different size of frames. The positioning of both sets of fixings is usually about a third of the way down the frame. Finally, if you are framing something particularly large, strap hangers give an excellent fixing - these are hung directly onto screws in the wall without any cord or wire being used. For accessories and fixings available at diyframing.com, click here. Fig P Cord and Wire Either cord or wire can be used to hang the picture. It is best to double the cord and tie it securely at one end (Fig P). Avoid tying a knot close to the centre of the frame as it may interfere with the picture hook, making it difficult to hang the picture centrally. The finished article After suitable planning and a bit of hard work, you should be able to achieve a very professional-looking framing for your artwork, ready to hang. The cost savings will be substantial - you could save up to 80% on a bespoke made frame. You can now frame up special cross stitch pieces for your family and friends and give them as presents for a fraction of the price. Check out the other things available on our website at www.diyframing.com.